First, the autumn time
Autumn cutting time is from mid-August to mid-October. The trees in the early autumn and early fall of the autumnal shoots are stopped, and the long and late trees are cut in the evening. Generally, they should be completed within 20 to 30 days before the falling leaves.
Second, the purpose of autumn scissors
The saplings and the initial result trees are dominated by the overall control, enriching shoots and buds, and enhancing their ability to resist cold. Large trees are mainly used to improve illumination, rejuvenate internal hemorrhoids, promote coloration, enhance nutrition, and ease peripheral branches.
Third, the autumn cut method
1. Pull branches to ease. In early August, the autumn shoots grow vigorously. In order to ease the tree potential, balance the shoots and shoots, and increase the internal light, the growth angle of all kinds of shoots must be promptly opened for the small trees with prolonged angles. The main branch should be opened in time. The angle (especially the tip angle) is pulled to 75 to 80, and the auxiliary branch is pulled to 90 or more. The specific method is to soften the base angle before pulling the branch to reach the standard of the pull branch, and then pull the branch to the required position and angle. The degree of branching is not a circle, no bowing, no overturning, no drilling, and the branches become a line. In addition, we must also pay attention to keeping the center upright, that is, correcting the backbone and adjusting the relationship between the branches.
2. The twig softens. In early August to late September, when the new shoots are approaching the length or have been lignified, 3 to 5 of the current year's vertical shoots or the competition branches on the back of the main branch, and the crown within the canopy, are to be extended to the lower part of the head.膛 Long-standing auxiliary branches of 1 to 2 years of uncultured lychee soften litchi. The method is: first hand hold the base of the shoot 7 to 10 cm, and then from the inside to the outside repeatedly bending (pinch) the shoots, do not damage the leaves, so that the damage to the twig tissue to the branches of the tube issued a crisp break sound , and there is a crack on the outside (back) of the shoot. After softening the litchi, the shoots should be in a sagging or horizontal state and bent toward the space. In order to enhance the litchi effect, it is best to continue 2 to 3 times every 7-10 days to suppress the growth of the apical shoots, promote the formation of short shoots in lateral buds, and lay the foundation for the formation of flower buds in the current year or the following year.
3. Thinning and lightening. From early August to late September, first of all, large trees in the fruit-bearing period with central stems must be rid of large interlamellar branches (ie, secondary branches) that severely affect the illumination of the inner pole and disrupt the structure of the tree, while compressing all the main branches. On the back of the powerful branch group, open the side light (commonly known as "open skylight"). Secondly, for the first fruiting branches and 2-3 years old saplings, we must eliminate the peripheral shoots, the competing branches, the overly-developed leg buds, and the tender autumn shoots sprouted from the back of the kerfs and girdlings. To supplement the internal light and prevent nutrient consumption. Third, sparse "skirts." It is necessary to reduce the number of low branch groups, enhance "under light", improve the air circulation on the surface, promote the growth of the inner leaves and the lower leaves, and increase the color of the fruits. However, it should be noted that if there is fruit on the branches to be removed, the fruit should be temporarily preserved and the branches have enough leaves to be removed after the fruit is picked or when the spring and summer of the following year are cut. When there are too many autumn rains, the inner shoots continue to sprout and prosper.
4. Lightly cut to heart. From early August to mid-to-late September, all but one of the auxiliaries (tips) will be lightly cut or capped. Planting orchards in the periphery will extend their heads 25 centimeters per 25 centimeters, and each 15 centimeters in the inner litchi shoots will be picked 1 time and then picked to the semi-lignified place. In this way, tree growth can be suppressed, growth of shoots can be increased, and the amount of tree branches can be increased, and the axillary buds can be enlarged and full, especially the formation of second shoots, and the result can be compact, the growth of tree vigor can be facilitated, and the safety can be improved. Wintering.
5. Take root control. From early September to mid-to-late October, middle-aged apples are harvested and combined with autumn (early) basal fertilization for deep plowing. General requirements in the trunk from 0.8 to 1 meter deep 40 to 60 cm deep ditch, cut off the diameter of 2 to 3 cm thick root, can play a long control, slow promotion of flowering role, and can promote hairy roots, Increase the number and proportion of medium and short branches to achieve high and stable production for consecutive years. The root orchard should be subject to formula fertilization and potassium fertilizer and organic fertilizer.
6. Branches. From early August to mid-September, for the perennial competitive branches on juvenile trees and the low-level auxiliary branches on the resulting tree, before the immediate elimination, due to the difficulty of opening angles, it is possible to adopt the method of breaking the branches to control the promotion of flowers. The effect is extremely satisfactory. The method is: after cutting the diameter (1/3 to 2/3) of the inner side (or upper part) of the upright twigs with a shear or a saw, pull hard and pull it to the outside and make it half-fold. A small wooden wedge can be added to the gusset. Fix its angle. The physiological effects of folding are similar to those of girdling and sawing.
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